祖國(guó)風(fēng)光(5454)杭州6個(gè)國(guó)保古跡
杭州國(guó)寶古跡多。有說(shuō)8處,我一天看的是6處:臨安城遺址(南宋太廟遺址)、寶成寺麻曷葛剌造像、慈云嶺造像、郊?jí)赂G址、六和塔和之江大學(xué)舊址。遺憾沒看閘口白塔和錢江大橋。不過(guò),意外看到太廟遺址。遺址已全部覆蓋,上植花草和鋪設(shè)硬磚,進(jìn)行軟性保護(hù)。
寶成寺麻曷葛剌造像在紫陽(yáng)山上。這寺很給力,五代、元造像并存,且免費(fèi),是國(guó)保黨的杭州行必選。它的意義在于,它是中國(guó)唯一一處麻曷葛剌佛像,且保存完好。
麻曷葛剌這繞口的詞其實(shí)是梵語(yǔ)大黑天的意思,即佛教中的戰(zhàn)神,藏密造像在江南的出現(xiàn),實(shí)在是匪夷所思。造像旁邊有明確的題記:元至治二年。造像1米多高,容相威怒,左右兩側(cè)刻有普賢文殊像,手法洗練,堪稱精品。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_1_20190215014755193)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_2_20190215014755490)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_3_20190215014755787)
龕楣上浮雕三只金翅鳥。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_4_2019021501475668)
旁邊的五代造像。
慈云嶺、天龍寺和煙霞洞三處造像并稱為西湖南山造像,非單列國(guó)保,并入的是飛來(lái)峰造像。慈云嶺造像在出玉皇山隧道的南觀音洞的旁邊小路上。
慈云嶺造像雕鑿于五代吳越王錢弘創(chuàng)建資賢寺時(shí),古寺早已毀滅,只剩造像殘存。主龕坐東朝西,造像7尊,彌陀、觀世音、大勢(shì)至、地藏、供養(yǎng)人等,及浮雕文殊、普賢菩薩,常委們差不多都聚全了。側(cè)龕3尊,菩薩加兩邊的侍者。龕楣呈拱弧形,內(nèi)雕纏枝牡丹,邊緣飾火焰紋。彌陀等兩尊頭像疑似后補(bǔ),手法粗糙,非一氣呵成的圓滿。我有時(shí)想,能大規(guī)模鑿窟造像,不僅是信仰,而且還是對(duì)盛世的平靜展現(xiàn),兵荒馬亂而絕無(wú)此心情。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_5_20190215014756365)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_6_20190215014756599)
主龕仰蓮須彌座上的觀音,跏趺坐式,姿態(tài)嫵媚。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_7_20190215014756865)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_8_20190215014757131)
側(cè)龕3尊造像。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_9_20190215014757428)
主龕全家福。
郊?jí)赂G址是南宋的2大官窯之一,就在玉皇山路和復(fù)興路的交叉路口。這窯發(fā)現(xiàn)于上世紀(jì)20年代,有窯爐,作坊等遺址。和我看過(guò)的那5個(gè)窯子不同的是,瓷片區(qū)都進(jìn)行了黃土覆蓋,戲說(shuō)它是中國(guó)最干凈的窯子。即為官窯,就是為皇家御用專燒,也就是從徽宗開始,朝廷直接籌劃御窯燒制,直至清朝。展示區(qū)的青瓷殘件,肥厚的釉層與碧玉斗妍,變幻著宋人細(xì)膩的審美觀。
作坊遺址的上面是燒制器物的龍窯,這是我第一次看到龍窯,在佛山看到是階梯窯,太原是饅頭窯,景德鎮(zhèn)的則是蛋形窯。龍窯顧名思義是長(zhǎng)形窯,分頭室尾三段,兩側(cè)裝窯、出窯、投柴。龍窯建造簡(jiǎn)單,燒量大,升溫快,還容易維持還原氣氛,適宜燒制青瓷。其實(shí)青瓷的故鄉(xiāng)就是浙江,東漢三國(guó)時(shí),上虞一帶就燒制成功了。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_10_20190215014757709)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_11_20190215014757943)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_12_20190215014758115)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_13_20190215014758271)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_14_20190215014758552)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_15_20190215014758724)
六和塔是所有到杭州的人必去的,拍的寫的也都泛濫成災(zāi)了。外表雍容的六和塔是宋元清混血,南宋的是里面的磚塔,元的是塔剎,外面的是清人建的木構(gòu)檐廊。六和塔完全按照李誡的《營(yíng)造法式》建造的,這書還來(lái)不及全國(guó)頒刊,北宋就滅亡了。所以安穩(wěn)江南的南宋有足夠的時(shí)間消化吸收,給美麗的杭州添了一景。
六和塔是八邊形。這八邊形是從五代開始的,以前的塔不是圓形就是方形,其初祖就是離六和塔不遠(yuǎn)的錢江邊的閘口白塔,看閘口白塔就是一個(gè)園夢(mèng)。六和塔的意義還在于由單筒體向雙筒體結(jié)構(gòu)嬗變,這對(duì)后朝的建塔產(chǎn)生了深遠(yuǎn)影響。
對(duì)于游人來(lái)說(shuō),登塔瞭望錢塘江和翠濤洶涌的月輪山、吳山。清風(fēng)徐來(lái),賞心悅目,就是愜意。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_16_20190215014758896)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_17_2019021501475999)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_18_20190215014759349)
石牌坊?!皟粲罱臁鼻☆}寫。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_19_20190215014759631)
塔內(nèi)的磚雕牡丹圖。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_20_20190215014759771)
磚塔和檐廊的連接橫梁斗拱。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_21_20190215014800115)
眺望的是另一個(gè)國(guó)保-錢塘江大橋。
之江大學(xué)舊址就是浙江大學(xué)的之江校區(qū),現(xiàn)在是法學(xué)院。它是六和塔的鄰居。
之江大學(xué)與北大(燕京大學(xué))、蘇大(東吳大學(xué))、東南(金陵大學(xué))等一樣都是曾經(jīng)的教會(huì)大學(xué)。 浙江大學(xué)校舍始建于1907年。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_22_20190215014800271)
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_23_20190215014800427)
二號(hào)樓,建于1910—1920年,男生宿舍。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_24_20190215014800787)
鐘樓,曾經(jīng)的經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)館,1936年由《申報(bào)》史量才獨(dú)資捐建。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_25_20190215014800912)
圖書館,現(xiàn)在依舊是圖書館。三層紅磚清水外墻,紅瓦披頂。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_26_20190215014801115)
慎思堂,曾是學(xué)校主樓,行政辦公樓,圓拱形窗戶,下面是多立克石柱的門廳,樓前有2顆秀頎的棕櫚和200年粗壯的香樟樹。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_27_20190215014801381)
博友汗馬提供的1918年主樓前拍的畢業(yè)照。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_28_20190215014801584)
下紅房,司徒雷登故居。建于1902—1903年,圓拱門廊,雕花柱子,有古羅馬建筑的痕跡,非??季浚堑湫偷哪パ蠊そㄖ?。老司離開杭州后,后創(chuàng)辦了燕京大學(xué),成為第一任校長(zhǎng)。老司對(duì)中國(guó)情感至深,念念不忘,希望百年后葬在北大燕園,但世事詭譎多變。2008年其終于被葬在杭州的半山。
![游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗 游走杭州的6個(gè)國(guó)保 <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr> <wbr><wbr><wbr>〖浙江杭州〗](http://image109.360doc.com/DownloadImg/2019/02/1513/154269554_29_20190215014801740)
校園一角。
意外看到的太廟地表只有一截仿制的墻垣和一個(gè)雕龍的石礎(chǔ)。石礎(chǔ)的龍飾,雕刻精致,且完整,看整體,估計(jì)原承重柱的直徑不少于半米。太廟是奉祀祖宗牌位的地方,精致細(xì)膩的南宋王朝,盡管偏安,但絕對(duì)能造出優(yōu)等的建筑來(lái)。
|